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http://search.ft.com/search/article.html?id=020726004173&query;=XinJiang&vsc;_appId=totalSearch&state;=Form

Enter the dragon
By John Congreve
FT.com site; Jul 26, 2002


On an empty stretch of desert road, fogbound after a dust storm, the bus stopped for an old Uighur couple carrying heavy bundles. Struggling aboard, the husband approached a young Chinese man in a business suit who was sprawled across two seats, indicating he should move over or join his friend in the row behind. The younger mans reply was to edge closer to the aisle and stick out a leg. It was a trivial incident, but one repeated every day in Chinas north-west province of Xinjiang, where historic tensions between indigenous Turkic Muslims and Han Chinese immigrants have in recent years exploded into violence and bloodshed, followed by mass arrests and public executions.

Since the September 11 atrocities in the US, Beijing has used the so-called war against terrorism as an opportunity to crack down even harder on any sign of Uighur resistance to Chinese rule - what it calls splittism. The result is that today the Uighurs are afraid to talk, not just to foreigners, but even to each other. A wrong remark can mean the sack, or worse. People have been arrested for things said at birthday parties. Several times during a recent month-long visit I heard Uighurs warn one another at table not to say anything political. So deep is this fear that when a Uighur in a baseball cap and dark glasses came up to me outside the main mosque in Kashgar and declared that the Chinese were tourists in Xinjiang, that Uighurs and the Taliban were allies, I suspected an agent provocateur and moved away.

Lawyers, journalists, teachers and schoolchildren are being sent on indoctrination courses. Its as bad as the Cultural Revolution, one Uighur professional said. A lawyer who dutifully wrote a dozen pages on the evils of separatism was told to go back and write more. Newspapers have been told to cull from archives all articles written since 1990 that speak of Uighurs as having a separate history and identity. Recently the authorities in Kashgar even resorted to burning books of Uighur culture - one of the titles was Ancient Uighur Craftsmanship - according to exiles interviewed by Radio Free Asia. Officials in Kashgar refused to comment, or denied the claims. If there is fear in Xinjiang, there is fear in Beijing, too. Chinese citizens are being told the region is dangerous to visit; some even believe a war going on. Western academics, who know the score and speak the languages, are being warned off. Tour groups and backpackers, who generally do not, or rely on Chinese guides, are allowed in.

Entering Xinjiang at a remote border recently, I was interrogated for almost an hour. The police seemed particularly suspicious of the fact that one of my intended stopping points was Gulja (Yining) in the Ili valley, scene of one of the worst incidents of recent times. It was there, one freezing morning in February 1997, that hundreds of young Uighurs marched through the streets, demanding equal treatment and protesting about the arrest of leaders of a meshrep, a kind of religious youth club. They were confronted by the armed police, who reportedly used dogs and flamethrowers as well as rifles. According to local witnesses, hundreds of people were killed and thousands of arrests were made while the town was sealed off for two weeks. Previous riots in other towns, attacks on government buildings and two bus bombings - one of them in Beijing itself - have left the authorities in a state of permanent alarm. Usually such protests are covered up by the state-controlled media; but after September 11, the official Xinjiang Daily published a long list of allegedly terrorist acts committed over the past decade. On the other hand, Amnesty International has twice reported on the widespread use of torture and on other judicial abuses in Xinjiang.

Since the attacks in New York and Washington, US support for the Uighurs has been muted, while protests from Uighur exiles in the west have become ever more vocal - a contrast with the enforced silence in their homeland. Xinjiang has become a second Palestine, says the East Turkestan National Congress, a Munich-based lobby. Careful not to condone violence, the ETNC claims it is the Chinese, not the Muslims, who are using terror tactics in Xinjiang. Like the Palestinians, the Uighurs are politically weak. They have no leader in exile to match the Tibetans charismatic Dalai Lama; they are disunited, and they are closely monitored (if not actually infiltrated) by Chinese intelligence. But they scored a minor public relations success last October when the Chinese embassy in Belgium failed to stop the ETNC holding a conference at the European Parliament in Brussels.

The casual visitor to Xinjiang sees none of this, even if the presence of the army is obvious. What he sees is furious modernisation: city-centre skyscrapers rising above parades of expensive boutiques; policewomen wearing the latest fashion in shoes - black high heels with duck-billed toes - and Uighur girls flirting in mini-skirts. There are new hotels with hot water, and even the restaurant floors are clean. From Gulja to Urumchi, from Turfan to Kashgar, the Chinese are stamping their own vision of the future on Xinjiang. New towns have sprung up alongside or on top of Uighur villages, reducing them to depressed suburbs or ghettos where the people are left to sell kebabs and bric-a-brac to one other. At night, city centres glitter with neon lights and winking bulbs draped over trees. The architecture is gaudy, postmodern American, with blue-tinted glass and white tiles a popular motif, as if to reinforce Beijings vision of Xinjiang as the new California.

Kashgar, the ancient Muslim city under the Pamir mountains, is being turned into a mini-metropolis, a pastiche of Las Vegas or Denver. Areas round the Id Kah mosque, the heart of Muslim Xinjiang, are being cleared and the inhabitants moved to multi-storey flats outside the city limits. Some Uighurs are happy to give up their old courtyard houses for the amenities of a modern flat, and to become entrepreneurs in the newly freed market. That is evident from the smart new villas among the cherry orchards and vineyards in the old quarter of Gulja, where a neo-classical mansion has been built as a school for poor children by a Uighur millionaire export-import trader.

All this development, driven by a get-rich-quick capitalism and aided by World Bank loans and special grants from Beijing, is in the name of progress. Most of the benefits, however, are going to the Han Chinese. To many Uighurs, therefore, it looks like an artificial boom in support of a Han takeover that will break up their communities and destroy their way of life. Its most threatening aspect is mass immigration, the biggest colonisation in the regions history. When the Communists took control of Xinjiang in 1949, there were about 300,000 Han Chinese in a population of about 5m. Today the population stands at just over 19m, and the Uighurs number about 8m, the Han 7m-8m, with Kazakhs, Chinese Muslims and Mongols making up most of the rest. Accurate figures are not available. Settlers and migrant workers are pouring in from the east at such a rate - one estimate is 7,000 a day - that Uighurs are beginning to feel like aliens in their own land. The exiles call it ethnic cleansing, or demographic genocide.

Most Uighurs are peasant farmers, who complain of high taxes and land rents, and competition from the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corporation, a paramilitary behemoth, with an almost entirely Chinese workforce. Now that China has joined the World Trade Organisation, they have foreign competitors to fear as well.

In the cities, Chinese immigration has already put many out of work. At dusk you can see them, gathered under a towering Chinese office block or outside a state hotel where Communist party cadres come and go in gleaming Japanese-made four-wheel-drives. They have become street vendors, selling barbecued mutton, sheeps lungs, liver and tripe. The price of a meal has never been lower, even though the price of meat has gone up. Middle-class Uighurs complain that most new jobs and promotions go to the Han, however unqualified. To complain is to invite dismissal. Holding on to your job is the main thing now, said one. Silence is the price they pay to work. For some, like the former secret policeman I met on a train, that price is too high. They resign. Or, if they can, they emigrate.

Discrimination, social and economic, only widens the gap between Uighurs and Chinese. Already divided by cultures as different as the mountains are from the desert, they inhabit separate worlds. They rarely intermarry. No Uighur will eat in a Chinese restaurant. They use different clocks: Beijing time, two hours ahead, being mandatory for all official business. They are divided by religion, language, diet and dress. Even their manners are distinct. The immigrants, especially the latest arrivals, can be as arrogant and boorish as any imperialist. The objects of their contempt, though far from saintly, are warm-hearted people still governed by old-fashioned courtesy.

Leaked Communist party documents show that the authorities see no flaw in their treatment of Xinjiang. Perhaps they believe the official propaganda, that the region has always been part of China. If so, it is little wonder that they feel entitled to exploit and export the oil, gas, coal, precious metals, cotton and wool. And they need the room. The Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region (to give it its official name) comprises one-sixth of the territory of the Peoples Republic, but has only one-sixtieth of its population and, according to one estimate, three-quarters of its mineral wealth. They are proud of their achievements, which are supposed to lift the Uighurs out of poverty, cure them of their reactionary habits, and put paid to separatist longings. But the claim to ownership is inaccurate, and the policy is not being carried out as advertised.

For 1,000 years before its conquest by the Manchu emperors in the 18th century, the Chinese had little or no control over the region. That is made plain by the name the Manchus gave it on annexation: Xinjiang means new territory. In 1864 it became an independent kingdom under Yakub Beg. Reconquered in 1877, it was detached again, run as a private fiefdom by Han governors, by the Russians, or by Muslim warlords who rose in revolt in the 1930s.

When the Communists recovered the Manchu empire in 1949, avenging the humiliations at the hands of foreigners, they treated the Uighurs with respect, as members of one big socialist family. Racial discrimination - so-called Great Han chauvinism - was condemned. Since then, but for a brief period after the death of Chairman Mao Zedong, they have kept them under the tightest control. They have always been afraid for their western border, first because of the Soviet Union, now because of Central Asian Muslim militancy. Chinas dubious war against terrorism seems designed to provoke the very thing Beijing says it fears - a Kosovo in Asia as a senior official once said. The policy of punishing the Uighurs until they crack, then punishing them even harder, is unlikely to make them keen citizens of China. These are hard times for the Uighurs, said a Uighur academic, one of the few who dared comment. Having been in control of our own affairs, it is hard to watch the Han taking over everything.

Uighurs could not possibly win an open confrontation. But China would not come off too well, either: the effects on foreign investment, tourism and world opinion can be imagined. By now, some of the new men at the top in Beijing must be wondering whether a climate of fear is really the best way to run the autonomous region of Xinjiang.



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Independence for Inner Mongolia
Free Inner Mongolia

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